Heliopolis: From Temple City to a Single Obelisk

I recently visited the Al-Massala obelisk in Cairo’s northeastern district of Matariyyah, once the heart of ancient Heliopolis. It was my first time seeing the site, despite nearly 50 years of association with Egypt, and I arrived with a sense of curiosity shaped by old photographs. In my archives are numerous vintage images of the obelisk, dating from the mid-19th to the mid-20th century, and in each it stands alone, rising majestically above open agricultural fields. The reality today is strikingly different. The obelisk now emerges from a dense urban landscape, framed by a vast, newly built apartment complex. For a moment, I felt I had arrived too late, imagining that only a few years earlier the fields might still have existed. But after speaking with the site’s caretaker, I learned that even this view was not new—the modern buildings had simply replaced older ones— “much uglier,” he assured me. During the New Kingdom (c. 1539–1075 BCE), when [Read more...]








